We flew into Milan and rolled our suitcases across the entire city to the train station. Cobblestones, jet lag, the works — not for the weak, but memorable.
From Milano Centrale the train to Varenna takes about an hour. Most tourists head straight to Bellagio. Varenna is quieter, less crowded, and just as beautiful.
We stayed at Casa San Giorgio, a charming Airbnb right in the village. That first night we had dinner at Osteria Quatro Pass — a wine bar tucked into a low-ceilinged stone space that’s been there forever. Great wine, great food, very local.
Rent a Boat
The next day we rented a boat — just the four of us, no captain — loaded it with wine and snacks and spent the afternoon on the water. We parked outside George Clooney’s villa. Boat rentals are available right in Varenna with a quick briefing before you head out.
Pro Tips
- Train from Milano Centrale to Varenna-Esino, about an hour
- Stay in Varenna over Bellagio
- Rent a boat
- Osteria Quatro Pass for dinner
Where to Stay Casa San Giorgio, Varenna
